Pothigai Malai [ Hills] A Spiritual Journey up the Agasthiyar Malai

"A journey never to be forgotten"....  "it was an out of the world experience"  ...was how it was acclaimed by my  husband and the group of trekkers, on how they found this spiritual trip to be. Definitey, a Holy experience that each and every human being should experience in their life time.....an unforgetable spiritual pilgrimage up the Pothigai Malai.... 

Pothigai hills - heaven of waterfalls..... This is where Ramachandran, my husband, together with his associates/friends, went on 23rd July 2011 for a two day expedition to witness this spectacular beauty of nature and invoking the blessings of the many siddhars who lived up these mountains many centuries ago. 

Lured and instigated by  Mr. Venkatesan, very dear and close to ones' heart in our family, it was with this wonderful person's guidance and knowledge and together with some of his associate friends that this trip came to be.... a wonderful and thought-provoking experience up the mystical Hills of Pothigai......!!  This fortunate Group of friends who made it to the Pothigai Hills say from their hearts that ....

......"if this is not paradise---then what else is?"  ....  No words can describe their experiences, as each and everyone of them was too engrossed drinking-in the essence of NATURE at it's best.  [I could not make this trip with my husband and this wonderful group of people, due to various reasons, and definitely feel sad about this].  But I am here -keeping you of course, engrossed in  recounting their exciting experiences to one and all.  

This fortunate Group of friends who made it to the Pothigai Hills a few days back, definitely feel that...

"this was a trip worth every minute and of course -- the divine memories of this Spiritual trip, will linger on for many, many more years to come...!!!

The journey which started at around 8 am in the morning from Chennai, was by road,  by a Quallis Van, comfortable enough for the six persons who undertook this tour. The journey was a long one - touching Trichy Madurai and winding towards Tirunelveli, Ambasamudhram and finally headed to Papanasam of TNI District in the night at around 9pm, where the accommodation had been booked.  With a good night's rest after a tiresome day, the following morning, all of the trekkers were filled with lots of enthusiasm to start the day up the Agasthiyar Malai.

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Here is a small recap/note  of this Magical / Mystical Pothigai Malai, which bear testimony of our Rich Heritage.  The Journey comprised of two days, the first day being the trip to the Agasthiyar Malai / Falls and the next day was fully devoted to the Hills /abode of Maharishi Athri  - up the Athri Malai.  

Pothigal Hills

The First Day Pilgrimage to Saint Agathiyar -  Spiritual Journey up the Agathiyar Malai:

It is a known fact that the Pothigai Hills is one among the India's Heritage Hills and rich in herbal plants. Our main reason to trek in Pothigai Hills is to see and be blessed by  the Saint Agathiyar Shrine and bathe in the Agasthiyar Falls.  

Rishi Agasthyar is one of the greatest seers of the Vedas. Rishi is a title given to the great seers of the Vedas. Agasthyar was sent by Lord Shiva to the south inorder to restore the Spiritual balance , as all the Rishis and Munis had gathered at north to see him [attend marriage] at mount Kailash and the equilibrium was lost.  By Agasthyar reaching the Pothigaimalai the earth was put on balance.Even the Dravidian parties agree to this story. Agasthyar is believed to be roaming about in the mountains even today.

Pothigai Hills - Siddhars and More.....

The history of famous Pothigai Mountains

In the Golden world, the Karpaga trees showered flowers, the sages recited the Vedas, the Angels stood on both sides and fanned, the round umbrella gave shade, Urvasi and some girls danced and Lord Devendran was sitting with Indrani on the throne. Kosarar who was an authority in playing Veena was praying at the feet of Lord Siva. He sang in praise of Kailaya Mountain, Mameru Mountain and some other mountains. Lord Indira felt happy and gave them what they needed. Then he asked his Guru Lord Viyazha why that musician sang in praise of only a few Mountains. He received an answer saying that he sang in praise of Mountains which were blessed by Lord Siva.

Naradha Munivar who heard about the fame of these Mountains came and told that Podhigai, Saiyamalai and Tharuthamalai should worship Lors Shiva, Naradhar also ordered to worship Lord Sivalingam, situated on the side of Mukala Virutcham. Then the three Mountains rose up, had bath in the Veda Theertha as per the orders of Naradha and did Archana to Lord Siva. Even if a person is born in a flawless, good family, if he does not do Sivapuja, he will not prosper. Even if a person is born in a low family, if he performs Siva puja according to rituals, he becomes a member of a high family, where Naradha said this, the Mountains Podhigai Saiyam, Tharuthram controlled the five senses and prayed to Lord Parameswara. Lord Siva appeared as as Jothi on Sivarathri Day as bright as million suns together.

Similar to Sri Lanka's Sri Pada or Adam's Peak [2,243m], Agasthya malai towers above its neighbours in a dramatic fashion. Both these mountains share geological origins and a wealth of flora and are appreciated for their spiritual significance. Agasthyamalai's name is derived from the great sage who is said to have given the Tamil language to the Dravidian people. Sage Agasthya is associated with herbal remedies and is often depicted holding a stone crusher in one hand and a vessel in the other. The significance of this and the fact that the Agasthyamalai hills are known for their medicinal plants, should not be overlooked.

Scenic Beauty enroute Pothigai Hills

Agasthya malai is no ordinary mountain. Among the steep slopes of scrub forest, valleys of dense tropical rainforest, and jagged peaks, Agasthyamalai stands sentinel. It has a distinct conical profile that is nearly identical from both the eastern and the western sides. From either Thiruvananthapuram in the west or Tirunelveli in the east, it stands out as a distinguished peak among a range of sharp, craggy mountains. Relatively speaking, it is a lesser peak in the chain of mountains that make up the 1,400-km-long Western Ghats. Dodabetta in the Nilgiris [2,623m], Karnataka's Mullayanagiri [1,918m] and Anai-Mudi [2,694m], South India's highest peak, are all far higher. Yet, there is something about Agasthyamalai that transcends mere height, and size really does not matter in this equation. Agasthyamalai's profile bears an uncanny resemblance to Tibet's Mount Kailash and this has perhaps led to its aura and many myths.

The striking similarity between the profiles of Mount Kailash and Agasthya Malai strengthen the mythological connections of these sacred peaks.


Similiarity of Agasthya Malai Peak and Mount Kailash

Agasthiyar Temple Peak - Pothigai Malai

Mount Kailash in Tibet

Pothigai or Agasthya malai is also known as Agasthyakoodam in Kerala. The Pothigai hills is in the Thiruvanandhapuram district of Kerala in a height of 1,866 meters, it is the highest peak in the southern mountain. The temple placed in a huge dense forest and taken by the control of Kerala government. In recent years it has been recognized for spiritual yatra between January to September every year. 

The Yatra starts from Kerala Tea-estate, we can reach the top hill camp by seven hours of journey. Another three hour needs to reach Pothigai Temple top hill. This is a very dense forest, where in we cannot see the sunlight in the mountain. 

The Rugged Mountains and its greenery - Pothigai Malai

On a map the collection of rugged mountains near the tip of India appear as a dark, insignificant blotch, just a shade different from the surrounding plains. It is certainly misleading, for the Ashambu hills that lie south of the Shencottah Gap support one of the richest concentrations of biodiversity in the whole Western Ghats chain. Crowning these mountains at 1,866 metres is a distinctive peak that holds a special place in the range. Pothigai or Agasthyamalai [also known as Agasthyakoodam in Kerala] has long been revered as a sacred mountain associated with the sage Agasthya. In more recent years it has been recognised for its phenomenal diversity of life forms. It is hard not to be swept away by Agasthyamalai's towering profile and magical aura. 

Project Tiger - Pothigai Hills

The hills range includes Kalakadu-Muntandurai Tiger Reserve [a remarkable protected area nearly 900 sq km]. But don't expect that you can see any one tiger when trekking.

Agasthiyar Temple - Pothigai Malai

Suruli hills is the part of the Pothigai Malai.   Pothigai hills is a highly divine and spiritual center. There is a story that when Shiva and Parvathi entered into divine matrimony at Mount Kailash in the north, the place was unbalanced because of the large number of holy beings witnessing the wedding.  Lord Shiva asked Agastya Maharishi to proceed to the South of India to balance the world. Agastya Maharishi then proceeded to Pothigai hills and balanced the world. Agastya Maharishi was able to visualise the wedding of Lord Shiva and Parvati on a Shivalingam that was at Tiru Kalyana Teertham at Pothigai hills. These hills are visited by several saints and sages from Himalayas particularly on a full moon day. The striking similarity between the profiles of Mt. Kailash and Agasthyamalai strengthen the mythological connections of these sacred peaks.

Suruli Falls - Pothigai Hills

While Swami Arulananda was at Pothigai hills, he often visited Subramania Swami temple in Tiruchendur. In 1981, on Thaipusam day [Full moon day in January], Agastya Maharishi appeared in Swamiji’s dream and asked him to proceed to Suruli Aandavar temple [Subramania Swami temple] at Suruli hills to practice Tapas. In this place, Subramania manifests as Suruli Aandavar. 

Suruli Velappar Temple in praise of Kartikeya is located near the falls. This temple is shaped like an OM Pranava.  OM is the source mantra of the universal. This Mantra was generated before the Earth and all planets were created. At this cave one can hear the OM Mantra when you are in meditation frequency. This statement was told by Omgara guru Sidhar Gunaneethy, who is the founder of Rishi's Meditation.

800 meters above the fall is the Kailasanathar Cave Temple.  At Kailasanathar cave a lot of Siddhars meditate at a natural spring with waters having medicinal powers. Now also a lot of Meykanda Devar's souls are there.  Kailasanathar cave is connected with the Sathura Giri Mahalingam Kovil Cave. The Palani temple Murugan statue was built by Bogar with Navapasana [A unique type of medicine created using nine types of poisons]. The bogar installed the statue before he came to Kailasnathar temple. Here he took a lot of Herbs and constructed the Murugan's Navapasana Statue.

The Dargah  at Suruli is an important worship place for some Muslims. This is named after Abubacker Masthan who lived around 1630s in this area and is buried here.  

A Kani man on the banks of the Tambaraparani near Injukuli village,
Agasthiya Malai

The Agasthya malai hills are home to the Kanis, an indigenous, forest-dwelling community. The Kanis once practised shifting cultivation, but most of the 16,000-strong population was relocated when the area was designated a protected area in the 1970s. The Kanis are well known knowledge about the Pothigai Hills and the surrounding hills, also they are the best guides of the Tiger Reserve area. 

Cloud of Mist  up the Pothigai Hills

Preparing for the Trek is very important.  One should take care to follow the list mentioned herein.

1. Avoid heavy weight in your trekking bag.
2. No need more than one cloth. Even no cloth is required. Take one towel.
3. Two problems when trekking in the pothigai hills is the Elephants and species. Prepare to manage the species.
4. Wear shorts and T-Shirts and / or comfortable clothing to make your trekking smooth.

The most important point to be noted here  is getting permission from the Forest Department for the trekking. They will allow this trekking for Pilgrimage only. Hence you will have to apply for permission well in advance and go in groups of 15 or more.  

The starting  place of the trekking is Karaiyar Dam [Thamirabarani Dam], but you can stay at Papanasam in Tirunelveli District, a nearby place of Karaiyar Dam. If you plan your trip one day before the date of trekking, you can see a  few places in and around Karaiyar Dam and Papanasam, such as Agathiyar Falls, Temple in Papanasam, Paanatheertham [Baanatheertham] Falls. 


The place to begin the Trek marks your onward journey up these mystical Hills.  For this Pilgrimage the halt and base for the Spiritual Journey was at Papanasam in Tirunelveli District.  

BaanaTheertham Falls

You can take bus or taxi from Tirunelveli to reach Papanasam. You should also take another  bus [the town bus] from Papanasam to reach the Karaiyar Dam. 

The following are the Palces of Interest on the way up the Hill.  One should make it a point to see all of these places while on your trip to this wonderful Malai:

• Agasthiyar Malai [Hill]
• Karaiyar Dam [ Thamiraparani Dam]
• Agasthiyar Falls
• Papavinasweshwara Temple
• PanaTheertham Falls[ Baanatheertham Falls]

Another View of Pothigai Malai

On How to Reach the Pothigai Hills:

You can take a Bus or Taxi from Tirunelveli City.  The distance from Tirunelveli City is approximately 45 km.  The nearest Airport is Madurai.

A Brief Write-up on Papanasam [Tirunelveli District]

The river Tamraparni reaches the plains at Papanasam. Over the Papanasam junction, the Papanasam Hydro, Electric Plant with the Upper and Lower Dams has been constructed in recent years.

Papanasam is at the foot of the mountain ranges, and the bed is rocky. The temple is famous for the absolution of all sins committed by human beings; hence the name Papanasam [or Papa Vinasanam].

Legend has it that a Pandya king who had converted to Buddhism tormented those of his subjects who did not agree to convert. An ardent devotee of Lord Shiva, unable to put up with any more harassment, left the state with his son and daughter.

The family was caught in some strife, and the children got separated from each other. After a long time, they arrived in Varanasi, where the children, now grown up, met each other and got married without realizing that they were siblings. When finally they realized their sin, they started searching for ways of absolution. They were advised to wear black and bathe in all the sacred waters of India. When their black clothes turned white, they would be redeemed. It was at Papanasam that this finally happened.

The river Thamiraparni that flows by the temple teems with fish. Devotees believe that these are redeemed souls, and harming them would bring retribution. Thousands of pilgrims come here every year to bathe in the sacred river.

Agasthiyar Temple - Pothigai Hills

Agasthiyar temple adjoining the falls named Agasthiyar falls is located half way to Panatheertham, which is at a distance of 4-km from Papanasam Shiva temple. One can reach the Agasthiyar falls and temple by trekking a distance of 3-km. Regular buses are available to these temples.

Legend has it, that it was close to the Papanasam falls on the banks of the Thamirabarani river that Shiva and Parvati appeared before Agasthiya, the falls came to be known as the Agasthiyar falls. To commemorate the visit of the divine couple, the Agasthya temple was built there.

Nearby Attraction:

Papanasam is a nearby village, where the river Thamirabarani flowing from the Western Ghats reaches its plains and drops to form a small waterfall. It is believed that people who bathe in this waterfall are relieved of all sins as “Papanasam”, which means absolution of sins. The Shiva temple here is also very famous.

The Lower Dam on Papanasam is a picturesque spot giving a xinoramic view of a wide area at the foot of the hill. It is an excellent place for a picnic party. 

Apart from Papanasam, Tenkasi, Srivaikuntam, Manappad Church, Krishnapuram are the other nearby places of tourist interest.

HOW TO GET THERE

Air: The nearest airport is at Madurai, 151-km away.
Rail: The nearest convenient railway station is at Tirunelveli, which is an important railway junction on the Southern Railway and is connected to all the major cities of South India .
Road: Tirunelveli is well connected by road with the important towns and cities within and beyond the state. Regular buses are available from Tirunelveli and the neighbouring towns to the temple.

A Brief write-up on Papanasam Temple

Papanasam Temple is located at Papanasam village, near Tirunelveli. The presiding deity is Papavinaseswarar [Lord Shiva], the redeemer of sins.The river Thamiraparni that flows by the temple teems with fish. Devotees believe that these are redeemed souls, and harming them would bring retribution. Thousands of pilgrims come here every year to bathe in the sacred river.

History

There are two temples; The Pallaivanatha Swamy temple constructed by the Chola King and the other is the 108 Sivalayam temples. There is also a Granary [storehouse of paddy]which measure 86 feet [26] in width and has a height of 36 feet [11 m] with a capacity of 3,000 kalam which is a measure. The Nayaks between 1600-1634 constructed it. It was built by stone of lime. The State Archaeological Department declared it as a monument. One can see the 108 Sivalingams only in the temple in Papanasam. Also one can see a Granary of this size only here.

Lord Papavinaseswarar -Papanasam

Temple Structure

The Papanasam temple structure is marvelous. There is artistic beauty in it. There are 7 steps in theGopuram an this temple is in the western banks of the Thampirabarani river. The importance of this place is that Agathiaa Munivar stayed here and did penance. The height of the temple – Gopuram is 80 feet. This temple is divided into 2 parts. In one part Papanasam Perumal adorns. He has a number of names Vairasalingam, Pazhamurainayagar, Mukhazhalingar, Paranjothi Lingar so on and there are 3 piraharams in front of the karpagraham where the Lord adorns. There are also Mada veedhi, Nandavana churtu, Utchurtu Mandapam, Vasantha Mandapam, Vahana Mandapam and Thirumarai Mandapam.The Navagrahas appear in front of the Thirumana Mandapam. In the Nothern side, Lord Dakshinamurthy gives Darshan, facing south.

Deity - Papanasam Temple

There are sculptures of single fish and double fish found on the top layer of Vasantha Mandapam. So it is said that this temple had been built during Pandya period. Since it is said that the Pandya king Vikramasingan built this temple, the place Vikramasingapuram is called after his name.

The month of Chithrai is one of the celebrayion. On the ninthday is the car festival. Then the floating festival takes place. One must realize that if we take bath in the river opposite the Papansam temple, it is equivalent to taking bath in Kasi. There is no doubt that the sins we had committed would leave us.

It is very important to worship Lord Shivalinga during Sivarathris. There are procedures in worshipping Lord Sivalinga. If we worship according to these procedures our sins will be removed. 

Birth – diseases will be removed.  The sages said that whoever worships Lord Shiva Linga, will be relieved of their sins.

The holy place of Papanasam contains many historical facts. Among them are Vairasalingam episode, moksha given to Virattu, The Vedas transformed into Thala Virutcham, the episode of Raja Raja Pandiyan who was cursed and Sundaran’s repentance. 

The disciples of Lord Siva say -- if people pray to this holy Pothigai Mountain with sincereity, they will be relieved of their sins and would be blessed with prosperity.

Exotic Papanasam

A few points of interest for the tourists who would be visiting this place:

*When you go to the Papanasam dam, visit the Papanasa Swamy Temple after taking a dip in the Tamiraparani, gloriously embracing the ground for the first time from the Western Ghats.

*You can trek for a distance from the temple to Agasthiyar Falls from where you can go to Servalar and Papanasam dams after shaking hands with the Kaani Tribes at Mayilaar and Servalar, who lead an uncomplicated and contented life with what they have.

*The trip to Paanatheertham Falls beyond the Papanasam dam in the boat amid drizzle and salubrious climate is another thrilling experience to visitors. You may also visit the Sorimuthu Ayyanar Temple, situated very close to rustling streams.

*On the plains, you can visit a good number of famous temples at Papanasam, Brammadesam, Kariyar Ayyanar temple all situated around Ambasamudram.

*Precisely, ‘Ambai,’ fondly called by the people of Tirunelveli, is a ‘sweetheart’ for everyone, including the ‘Kollywood’, which camps here quite often for outdoor shooting and song sequences.

The following are the Palces of Interest on the way up the Hill

• Agasthiyar Hill
• Karaiyar Dam [Thairaparani Dam]
• Agasthiyar Falls
• Papavinaswehwara Temple
• Panatheertham Falls [ Baanatheertham Falls]
• Athri Nath- Hills of Athri Maharishi

Papanasam - BaanaTheertham

On your way to the Agastiyar Malai and the Falls, one can never forget the noise of the motor boat, cutting the dam water. The feeling of exhilaration as the  boat goes between two mountains among many mountains that were surrounding the dam water when nearing... the gushing sound of water falling from height became more and more audible. Slowly and gradually as the curtains for a play unfold, our sight is opened to view the exquisiteness of Mother Nature. The milky water with a thundering sound falling from the heights is one of the most exotic views one can ever imagine.  This can definitely be termed as a ride to remember and cherish for the lifetime.

For protecting the tourists against wild poaching animals, the Forest Department Officials see to it that no one is permitted to go up theAgasthiya Malai / Hill  before 6  am and see to it that the tourists are back down the hill well before 5pm.  After a few kilometers by walk, the trekkers are  put on a boat, which takes them on to a distance of 6 kms to and fro up the hill.  Once they alight from the boat, a distance of another 4 to 5 km are by foot.  This pathway is a a real tough one testing the patience of each and every tourist going up this hill to worship Agasthiyar Temple and to bathe in the Agasthiyar Falls.

Almost all of the tourists who go to these hills say that the journey up the Agastiyar Malai was no doubt an eventful one. This was the very temple where Sage Agathiyar pressed his thumb into the ground to balance the earth that had tilted due to the Devas, Gods, and Goddesses converging in the Himalayas for Lord Siva-Goddess Parvathy’s wedding.

Sage Agasthiyar - Pothigai Malai

Similar is the happenings at the Sage Agathiyar shrine in Agnipureeswarar Temple in Agasthiyampalli near Vedaranyam, where one can invariably hear the air filled with "Potri songs"  as is customary.  Camphor is lighted and there is an aroma of sandalwood in the air.  Each and every person there starts to chant/recite  the ‘pranavam’-‘AUM’ at Sage Agathiyar’s shrine and one can hear and feel the ‘pranavam’ reverberate, and bounce off the granite walls. One can feel a cool breeze sweep over the devotees, even as one sweats away at the shrine.  As they chant the last line of the 'Potri' song, ‘OM MAA SIDDHARGALE POTRI’ ..the feeling  inside you  is said to be  so over-whelming and exhilarating,  that it brings tears to ones eyes.  A feeling beyond words definitely[as picturized by one of the devotees who had been there].  Such is the power and the sanctity of Sage Agasthiyar - wherever he may be!

IT IS also SAID THAT IN RARE INSTANCES, SAGE AGAsTHIYAR OPENS HIS EYES TO SOME OF HIS BHAKTHAS....and indeed, the fortunate among them are only a handful. 

It is said that  this was the spot were Sage Agathiyar himself had meditated and attained Mukti.

It is also said that this was also the spot where the sidhas come down in the form of light after 11.00 pm daily.  A divine place no doubt! 

Papanasam near Pothigai Hills which is famous for the Agathiyar Falls, is usually  packed with holidaymakers, be it a on weekends or otherwise.  Bathing in this water falls is indeed a pleasure  for anybody. 

Agasthiyar Falls- Papanasam

There is definitely a  therapeutic value of the waterfalls just by taking a shower in the falls which bears a great revitalizing impact on our bodies and gives one the feeling of instant rejuvenation. The water is cold and the force with which it falls seems to us  like a natural water massage. The water pinches and thumps on our shoulders, that one is forced to take frequent breaks in between showers. Finally when we come out of the falls for a brief sunbath it was gives us a fresh feeling to a greater range. 

After a heavenly bath under the falls, it was time to start  climbing up the long flight of stairs to a lake  known as the Kalyana Theertam.

This is a holy pool located at an elevation of 125 feet on the Agasthiyar falls and it gets its water flow from this pool only. This is called kalyanatheertham. Near the pool, there is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.

On the way, the guide is bound to take you past a house built into the cliffs where a lady saint, by name Krishnaveni Ammal, popularly known as "VanaDevathai" lived. It is said that she had been staying in solitude since coming up to this spot following a siddhar when she was barely thirteen years of age. We are told that she never went back.   Incidentally she passed away a year ago.

The Heavenly abode of the Sages - Pothigai Malai

It is also said that this was also the spot where the siddhars come down in the form of light after 11.00 pm daily.  A divine place no doubt!

The disciples of Lord Siva say -- if people pray to this holy Pothigai Mountain with sincereity, they will be relieved of their sins and would be blessed with prosperity.

Nature at its Best - Pothigai Malai

The route throughout our trip up the hill from the morning , was of scenic beauty ---- a picture of green, dense forests and with the misty hills surrounding /enveloping us. Through out the journey, the sky was playing hide and seek and almost at times hidden by the thick forest vegetation.    The breeze blowing through the mountains was reverberating and refreshing throughout the day, thereby casting a magic spell to the landscape. 

Of course, all of this group of friends say that they had their full share of  adventures and natural treats in a single day and could not ask for more.  The first leg of the adventurous/sacred journey up the Pothigai Hills was filled with a heavy yet pleasant and thrilling memories of the day.   

Indeed...a trip worth the efforts taken! 

The second day's trip up the Pothigai Malai to the Athri Nath- the abode of Athri Maharishi will follow in the next posting of mine.